I believe this is due to the following variables: the film I use is always quite expired (as in decades) and the conditions I shoot and store it in are not consistent, temperature-wise, I have found that this process is forgiving, predictable and less ‘alternative’ if the procedure is followed to the letter, yet when I began to get eccentric deviations, I often wasn’t able to exactly reproduce those results. Here is my first accelerated image, in which I followed the directions loyally:īelow are the later variations in which I used other black and white film developers instead of Acufine. I have been reassured by those brave enough to cooperate that it can be handled as a simple cross process (slide to negative). At the point the film is ready for this step it has been bleached, looks weird and scary to those unfamiliar with unconventional processes, such as a commercial lab. extra step, there may be labs that will process it for you although this could be quite a challenge.
It is crucial to dispose of it, as many photo chemicals require, as toxic waste with your municipality.ĭO NOT EVER THROW IT DOWN THE DRAIN UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES! HOWEVER, It is quite toxic and must be handled carefully with a respirator and gloves! The chemistry can be found online and it’s a relatively simple procedure and better still, the same for all color films! There are also YouTube tutorials. Necessary is the C-41 process, this being how color print film is developed. Basically, you’re reversing slide film into a color print negative with a bleaching step in the middle. My method is quite fast and loose as I enjoy being surprised at the end. These various recipes can be quite detailed and rigid. Also, Robert Hirsch describes it in the second edition of Color Photography. If you goggle these words, there are a number of sites that will explain and guide you as well. The issue was from May 1989 written by Rand Molinar, titled “Film Acceleration”. They generously shared with me the how-to article from the now defunct magazine Darkroom Photography. Initially, I learned of this method in the 90’s from seeing the amazing work of committed ‘accelerators’ in a communal lab. He said that large sheets of it could be bought from Atlanta Costume, which provides gels for theatrical lighting.A multi-step processes designed to push color film to create Pointillist effects with intense grain as well as many unpredictable and extraordinary outcomes.Įssentially, it can appear as very intense cross processing with local solarized elements. He checked the sensitivity curve of the Agfa film and picked a green gel which blocked that range. Phone 1-31Metrologic book gives Ph 70, Fax 70Ĭlay uses a green safety gel in the darkroom which he got from Atlanta Costume on Monroe Drive. It involves A and B parts which are kept separately and mixed just before use. From Photocopy Warehouse, Armour Drive, Norcross, 40įor developing he recommended a pyrochrome process obtainable from Photographers Formulary, Condon, Montana 40. He provides the following information.įilm recommended: Agfa 8E75NAH-HD(8 is the type of emulsion, 75 specifies 750nm as peak of sensitivity, NAH specifies no backing, I think, and HD is for high definition) 100 sheets of 4x5 for about $120. Some persons prefer to use a photographic squeegee to wipe off most of the water so that large droplets will not form after the film is hung to dry.Ĭlay Turner has had a lot of experience with film and developing for holograms. It helps to prevent water spots from the formation of water droplets on the film. Photoflo Kodak Photoflo is a commercial wetting agent which is used as the last step before film drying. The bleach is good for a long time and can be reused until potency is lost. Mix the potassium dichromate thoroughly in the water. Catecholīleach Bleach solution mixture: Water at 68☏ Note: The use of distilled water is recommended. Water at 68☏ add to make 1 literSolutions A and B have considerableshelf life, unmixed. The stock solutions are mixed from the chemicals obtained from Photographer's Formulary. Mix only enough to develop the holograms, and dispose afterward. The working solution has a life of approximately 8 hours. Just before developing, mix equal parts of Solution A and Solution B in a developing tray. HyperPhysics***** Physics 391 ***** Holography
Sample layout for developing Further comments on developing If you are making reflection holograms, they cannot be viewed until the hologram is dry. Hang up vertically to dry, using clean and dry hangers.
Soak in Photoflo solution as recommended for three minutes.Bleach until the hologram is transparent, less than two minutes.Wash in running water for three minutes.Develop in the working solution (developer) for two minutes.Holography Laboratory Processing Holography FilmChemicals needed are the developer solution, bleach, and Photoflo.
0 kommentar(er)
